La Vecchia Dispensa in the village of Castelvetro, 6km outside Modena. Across the square is restaurant, Al Castello, run by members of the same family, where they put balsamic vinegar on everything – parmesan cheese, veal, even vanilla ice-cream.
While most mass-market balsamic vinegar is but an imitation of the real thing, this is a great compromise: a deep flavor and colour, and a level of concentration that enables a few drop to add distinction to vinaigrette. For a hint of the real thing, you can’t do better: Vecchia Dispensa Balsamic Vinegar.
This one comes from a little producer, La Vecchia Dispensa, in Castelvetro, just south of Modena, Where Marino Tintori makes his Balsamico, and on the other side is his wife’s family restaurant, which serves his vinegar and artichokes and grilled peppers in oil. Last time I visited Marino, he stuck a spoon in barrel, pulled it out and literally not a drop felt off. It was at least 100 years old.” An age on a bottle of traditionally-made balsamic vinegar is deceptive – in Italy they are not allowed to state a specific age,” he explains, “because the vinegar is made on the solera system, in which it is moved through a range of barrels from large oak ones, through cherry, to small ones might be made out of juniper.